Kangra Fort: The enticing formidable
The unassailable often ends up the most assaulted. Ironically axiomatic, albeit, a historical truism. The ramparts are impregnable for the treasury must be laden. Or the courtly houris most desirable. Both accepted spoils of battle. ‘Whoever holds the fort holds the land’ goes an old Kangra saying. This made the Kangra Fort, despite its formidable layout […]
Behind the big top
The dog-and-pony routine I had seen three decades ago. Forget animated ballyhoo, even the mandatory act introductions were sporadic and lacked verve. The funambulists were missing. They were missed too: watching the performer gingerly treading on the highwire used to give me enough time to conjure up my own vertiginous shudders. Charivari, the much-needed comic […]
Three Ms and other legends of Alwar
The Siliserh Palace 15 kilometres south-west of Alwar was built by Maharaja Vinay Singh in 1845. But you can attribute it to the colourful Maharaja Mangal Singh who ruled from 1874 for almost two decades if you are not finicky about historical facts. And if you believe that a dash of romance – a doomed […]
How to ward off tigers*
“You must keep an eye on the tail – before a big cat leaps it will brush its tail softly on the ground, that’s how it measures the distance to the prey. Then you just jump from wherever you are.” Many years ago a forest warden took me through the basic moves on how to […]
It’s desert time: Junagarh Fort
One late afternoon I emerged from Junagarh Fort, the city of Bikaner radiating in all directions, convinced why it was my favourite fort in the country. There was no out-of-the-blue cordoning off of areas with the unsettling ‘The royal family still lives here’ excuse. This was not a ‘living fort’ – and by extension undergarment-splattered […]
Don’t we know it all! Some gyan for the Indian trekker
The trek was meant to be bonding time for Anirban and Amitav, father-son. They were understandably gung-ho and impressively geared up: Maui Jim glasses, supplex trousers, backpacks and shoes from North Face, imported granola bars and water purifying tablets, other Nike and Protrek works. Anirban headed a platoon guarding the Indian border with Pakistan along […]
The mountain Singhs
They lead us beyond yonder but seldom find their way into our acknowledgments or albums, status updates and shares. The best mountaineer is not one who climbs the highest mountain A couple of days in the jungle and I was good to snore my way through grunts and growls, squeals and shrieks. But this was […]
And it’s out: EXPERIENCE AGRA AND AROUND ON THE ROAD
Experiences and excerpts from ‘Experience Agra and Around On The Road’ written and photographed by me, published by the Times of India. Whoo-hoo… …I went. Red too seemed visibly buoyant as we swayed to the simoom that swept the NH2 and lurched from a sweltering Delhi towards a scorching Agra. August last year was not […]
Kerala bar ban: Listen to The Voice
I, like guys anywhere, have some of my fondest life-defining memories revolving around the bars in my hometown. In one I threw a bash after losing my virginity doling out the Marlboros she gave me which was also my first smoke, in another I celebrated a university rank, in yet another I drank to a […]