This is no Thames. The coxswains aren’t second-skinned in Speedo, neither are they mic-ed up on live TV. Their fan bases do not extend beyond the four bunds of their native backwater villages. No frenzied tweeting after contest. No autograph rush, no sponsorship deals to plug protein supplements or aqua gear; not even the state broadcaster Doordarshan does a ‘how we did it’ interview. What makes none of this possible to an extent is the team size – not less than 100! Then this is exactly the charm of the

Any place with a captivating degree of scenic lure, the Pandavas have been there before you. Seasoned domestic explorers will agree that the famous five have traipsed over every picturesque mountain and verdant vale, camped across the most spectacular lake and gushing river and traversed every panoramic forest. At least according to local lore. The locals of Kuttanad too believe the warrior brothers passed through the region; even cite passages from the Mahabharata to corroborate their claim. Of course then it was not the ‘rice bowl’ it is today, neither

The charlatans in Kerala didn’t need toadeaters; the people were too gullible to doubt or too nice to question the power of their potions and mantras. ‘Chathan Seva Madoms’ or shrines that deified the devil mushroomed in different parts of the state promising to annihilate your enemy, bankrupt your business rival or just make life miserable for that guy you never took to. The devotee just had to provide blood by the bucket – usually live dogs or chicken (humans earlier) – and later on sneak in and plant ash-filled